Tuesday 10 May 2011

Rules of the Blog, Part 3

So, rules. First off, I probably won't ever be listing exactly how many points in each category a specific bourbon gets -- mostly because my system isn't very granular to begin with, so there shouldn't be much room for speculation. So, a quick run-down on tasting. A future blog will break down tasting some more, but here's a quick idea on how each step works:

First off, I try the bourbons twice -- once when first poured, and once after sitting for around 30 minutes. Bourbon (and other whiskeys) really open up when you let them sit around at room temperature, since the alcohol oxidizes a bit and gives off tasty vapors, letting it stew in its own juice. For my reviews, I decided to use the wacky Glencairn Canadian Whisky glass, in honor of Ontario. Glencairn designed a lovely scotch whisky glass a few years back and it's the tasting standard (though brandy snifters are often used as well). There's a little hype involved in glassware, but a curved glass really does aid in the nosing over the standard rocks/whiskey tumbler. The Canadian Whisky Glass is more short and stout than the standard Glencairn, and lacks a stem -- it's almost a cross between the Glencairn and a rocks tumbler, with some of the benefits of both.

THE NOSE: The initial step in drinking bourbon is -- get this -- smelling it. Sniffing bourbon like a fancy wine guy does actually bring out the taste quite a bit, and preps your taste buds a bit. Use short, sharp sniffs and be careful, especially when smelling higher-proof whiskeys, as you can burn out your sense of smell for a bit if you inhale too deeply. Bourbon has lots of neat smells, but the ones I find most common are charred wood (duh), ethanol (duh, corn), vanilla, honey, citrus (particularly tangerine or orange), various nuts (like roast almond, cashew, and walnut), brown sugar, rye, toffee, cocoa, and other fruit and floral smells. Nosing again later, after its opened up (or after adding water -- but not too much, and not an ice cube; while I don't always hate ice in bourbon, I find it has a deleterious effect on my nosing abilities).

THE TASTE: Sip your bourbon gently, like a gentlefolk is wont to do. Suck some air in around it. Make note as it travels down the tongue slowly, since different tastebuds will taste things, well, differently. If you can handle it, chew it around your mouth. This is the key here; good  bourbon isn't to be slammed back like a shooter. Whisk(e)y is magic: it gains potency from age and its time in the wood. It draws flavor and strength from the barrel over time; this isn't vodka or even rum, there's years of secrets hidden in there. The flavor often carries on from the nose, but there are plenty of whiskeys that can surprise you with some new tastes (good or ill).

THE FINISH: Here's one of my favorite parts of drinking whiskey, what separates the cheap stuff from the good stuff. The finish is that taste that hits the back of your tongue and emanates from your throat as you swallow. New drinkers to bourbon often like whiskeys with short or light tastes, calling it "smooth" (that said, if I wanted smooth, I wouldn't be drinking alcohol -- I don't drink just to get drunk these days, I'm looking for the experience), but there's a real difference between a finish that lingers deliciously and one that burns all pepper and heat. Higher proof can really make a finish linger (I think of it as breathing smoke), but there are some lower-proof bottles that really let you enjoy the taste. One of the easiest ways to tell the difference between wheat-heavy and rye-heavy bourbon is the finish; both are often quite distinctive. Like the taste, there are lots of hidden notes in the finish for a perceptive and patient drinker; learn to look past the alcohol and heat and a good bourbon will offer you a lot.

BALANCE: The follow-through and full experience of drinking bourbon; some bourbons are undermined by elements of the smell, taste, or finish that set the whole experience awry; similarly, other bourbons might make up for some lack in individual notes by providing an overall satisfying experience -- a bourbon that is a bit delicate and thin in the nose or taste might make up for that by emphasizing a satisfying floral note that carries throughout the drink.

INTANGIBLES: I talked about this a bit elsewhere, but I'm giving myself a little wiggle-room in the review for things like price (all my prices are based on the LCBO prices, since this blog is based on reviewing what I think the best buys are at the LCBO -- which, note, I am not affiliated with at all), presentation, and other "value" notions, as well as other small things I enjoy about the bourbon. I'm weighing this score a bit lower than the others.


Next up: More tastings! Any questions?

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